However it weighs 3-times (or more!) what the aluminum prop does, I could feel it gronch into and out of gear every time I shifted due to the added mass. I just tried out the Michigan AMC354 at our last meet and it did give a 1mph advantage over the stock prop on my DuraNautic DN12. The stock aluminum 3-blade prop is pretty good for most 12′-13′ aluminum and fiberglass boats with a normal load. If you have the 11-tooth and elect to make one, please make two of them since I could use a spare! 🙂 I’ve seen the 12hp motors with both types so lets hope you’ve got the 13-tooth one. The 11-tooth ones are NLA and it’s been a long time since I’ve seen an NOS one come up for sale. If you have the 13-tooth pull start Bendix gear, it is available from Mercury Marine for about $25 – P/N 43-803624T. About the best prices for them are from Jim Judkins (oldoutboardjim) on this site’s Webvertize section. I do not know of a source to buy the OMC coils without the laminations. And anyway, unless you get the EPA guy from the original Ghostbusters, most people will be looking at your classic West Bend and not the water! If it is a good quality oil rated TCW-3, you shouldn’t see a sheen on the water. I run all my motors on the original gas/oil mix using either Evinrude/BRP or Mercury 2-cycle oil, so I’d suggest sticking to the correct 16:1 on you motor.
Oh, one more question: Do any alternative props work on these? On the starter pinion, is there any source for these? I have sufficient machine work capability that I could make one out of aluminum, but it would be a pain. It would be nice to be able to buy the bare coils without the laminations…. They are about $16 on Amazon and a few other places.
#Elgin 12 hp outboard motor install
I expect to have to install the OMC coils. Can you advise? (Not trying to restart an unending discussion of oils and mixes….)
From looking at a parts breakdown it seems there is a lip seal on the lower main bearing. What mix do you use? it’s hard to run a 16-1 motor without leaving a visible sheen which is (at least technically) illegal. I see West Bend went to a 24-1 fuel mix in 1960 but I’m not aware of any mechanical changes in the motors. The motor end on mine is so corroded/pitted that I doubt it would seal in any case. I think I will just make a pigtail to an OMC connector. I picked up this motor a few years ago and am just now getting to it.
Thanks very much for the quick and comprehensive response. I did a short video last summer on my 1960 West Bend, if you are interested it can be found at the following link:
Fuel pump diaphragm is easy to make or can also be purchased from Mercury, # 27-818043A1. The original impellers seem very robust, but if you need one I think they cross to the Mercury/Force # 47-F901065.
#Elgin 12 hp outboard motor plus
It’s as quiet and smooth as the QD, more fuel efficient and has just a tad more power and speed – plus I love that funky "George Jetson" styling! I did the OMC coil and condenser swap that I outlined in the Tech Tip on my website. I’ve come to love my 1960 WB 12hp (mechanically the same as your ’57) so much that it has supplanted my ’55 Johnson 10hp as my go-to motor for daily use on my 12′ DuraNautic. Other than the aforementioned bendix gear, they are fantastic motors. I would suggest getting the motor running and performing well, then figuring out what to do about it. As you noted, many people simply jam a hose on the male fitting or use a short hose as an adapter to an OMC or Mercury motor-end fitting. (I see 50 motors to 1 connector…) The neatest conversion I’ve done is using the later WB/Chrysler style, however the motor (male fitting) was something I scrounged and I couldn’t tell you what it came off of. The fuel connector used by West Bend and on the WB made Elgins is unique, they are not easy to find.
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